The angle between wale and a line drawn perpendicular to the course is the measure of spirality. Currently around 50% of clothing needs in the developed countries is met by knit goods. Download our english dictionary apps available for both ios and android. In other words, spirality occurs in knitted fabric because of asymmetric loops which turns in the wales and course of a fabric into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. All the knitting patterns listed here are designed by myself. The results obtained from different procedures may not be comparable. Read article about read article on evaluation of spirality in knitted fabrics, calculation of spirality in knitted fabrics, determination of angle of wale spirality and measurement of spirality angle. From this study, it is clear that spirality depends on feed density, machine cut, and loop shape, but the magnitude of spirality can be offset by the selection of yarn twist direction.
This lesson is the first in our 7part series on working with knit fabrics. Papers describing the effects of the elastane in knitted fabrics are generally related to dimensional properties of the fabrics 1, 2 and 3. For easier assessment of the spirality angle of the produced fabrics, a latch needle was removed from the cylinder. The spirality of singlejersey knitted fabrics may be temporarily corrected by low levels of fabric strain, achieved by using a former during steam processing or presslll. Introduction to knit fabrics university of fashion. Various defects in knitted fabrics affect the quality but spirality is the most common fault that affects the single jersey knit wear fabric. Presentation of shrinkage of knits textiles knitting. Pdf skewness and spirality of knitted structures researchgate. One of the major problems encountered in knitted fabric is spirality.
Schulze 1 investigated the dimensional properties of. Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by. Besides the torque, spirality is also governed by fibre parameters, crosssection, yarn formation system, yarn geometry, knit structure and fabric finishing. We will teach you about how knits are made and about the different types of yarns, so that when. Available for download link will be provided in my complianceonline section. Spirality correction system patent pending is a machine made for controlling the remaining twist of the tubular knitted fabric. Ideally courses and wales should be at right angles. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 2. Spirality in knitted fabric omics publishing group. Circular knitted fabric an overview sciencedirect topics. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find area to rotate so spirality is increasing. Application form for textile testing knitted fabric. Determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image analyses. Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change.
If z and s twist yarn packages are used in alternate feeder then legs than 1% spirality is found and this is the greatest way to reduce spirality resin treatment. The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing. In a flat piece, the yarn is raveled back and forth. Spirality or skew is a common defect that is generally found in single jersey structures. Determination of maximum force to izo rupture using the grab method iso textiles. Evaluation of spirality in knitted fabrics calculation of spirality in. In addition, we have shown that a reduction in yam torque can only partially reduce fabric spirality, but the use of plied yams and plaiting techniques may. If you have your own pdf patterns you want to add to this page, please submit photo and file. Note that some fabric constructions, such as denim, can have spirality intentionally introduced during manufacturing. It has influential impacts on stitch density, fabric weight, panel length, tightness, fabric width and dimensional stability brackenbury, 1992.
Ebscohost serves thousands of libraries with premium essays, articles and other content including bow, skewness and spirality in knitted fabrics. Pdf spirality in knitted fabric rama moorthi govindan. Evaluation of spirality in knitted fabrics calculation. Determination of dimensional change on commercial laundering near the boiling point bs en iso 3759. Percentage of wale spirality change in knitted garments iso textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 2. Test methods for measuring fabric spirality in knitted fabrics are outlined. This in house test method describes the method of test in order to determine the spirality test method which occurs in.
We start by demonstrating the difference between woven and knit fabrics and then how knits are structured. Global demand for knitted garments is growing at a faster rate than that of woven items. Effect of elastane on single jersey knit fabric properties. The following paper focuses on change in spirality due to stitch length and count variation. Spirality in knitted fabric jamshaid h department of knitting, national textile university, pakistan.
Fine knitted fabrics known as second skin are produced on fine gauge circular knitting machines. Seffect of yam conditioning on knitted fabric spirality angle chosen to make more distinguish the effect of the yarn twist liveliness on the spirality of the knitted fabrics. Yarns of different counts knitted to the same loop length display different physical properties such as drape, openness, permeability, handle and spirality etc. Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and their garments. In order to promote public education and public safety, equal justice for all, a better informed citizenry, the rule of law, world trade and world peace, this legal document is hereby made available on a noncommercial basis, as it is the right of all humans to. Woven and knitted garments 30254772 dc bs iso 17617. The scs is given the input data for the given fabrics spirality percentage, direction of rotation, and tubular width. Keywords circular knitting, machine gauge, gsm, shrinkage, spirality, physical and mechanical properties 1. They can be raveled readily, and they easily develop runs, or ladders, when a yarn is broken. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering. The description of this defect is named as spirality as it occurs more commonly in circular fabrics 3. Also referred to as torque, spirality is one of the most difficult challenges in finishing knit fabrics.
Some of them dont come in pdf but you can still print it out in doc form. Yarn twist multiplier is the principle cause of spirality and it is directly proportional. So ensuring the required quality in a knitted fabric is a vital issue for the manufacturer. This part of iso 16322 specifies three procedures diagonal marking, invertedt marking and mockgarment marking to measure the spirality or torque of woven and knitted fabrics after laundering. The loop length is an important quality control factor in the production of knitted fabric. Spirality is a dimensional distortion in the circular knitted fabric. Some relaxation of yarn and knitting stresses occurs when the fabric is first unrolled after knitting. This work was carried out with 12 samples of single jersey knit fabrics which were scoured and bleached with naoh and h 2 o 2 35% strength, dyed with. This is a very common problem in single jersey knits and it may exist in grey, washed or finished state and has an obvious influence on both the aesthetic and. Causes and remedial measures of spirality in knitted fabrics. The scs works in line before the compactor using patented technology and sophisticated control paramaters and a specically designed correction chamber that operates at the speed of the compactor. Study on the important factors influencing spirality of weft knitted fabric.
Spirality correction system scs of knitted fabrics. Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image analyses. Knit fabric skew or spirality caused by wale loop distortion when knitted fabrics are allowed to relax off the knitting machine, they will spiral. The two classes of knitted fabrics are the filling knit and the warp knit. Methods of test for readymade articles made from woven fabrics. Fabric spirality tester is a equipment for dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics.
Navis tubetex launches new technology for spirality. This test method determines change in skewness in woven and knitted fabrics or twist in garments when subjected to repeated automatic laundering procedures. Elastane plated single jersey plain knitted fabric pattern. Cross linking the fabric by means of inter fibre bonding also reduces spirality. Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for. You will learn the meaning of terms like knit and purl, wale and course and how a weft knit differs from a warp knit. This standard is also available to be included in standards subscriptions. It was found that tightness factor has a direct influence on knitted fabric spirality with a high degree of correlation. Introduction knitting is a technique for producing a twodimensional fabric made from a onedimensional yarn or thread 1. Determination of the adhesion strengtt msz laboratory tests readymade garments download textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 1.
Results of an experimental investigation are statistically analyzed considering the effects of yarnfabric construction factors on the spirality behavior of laboratory produced singlejersey fabrics. It is fully automatic and makes the correction easy, regardless of all parameters that influence the spirality of tubular knitted fabric. A study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric a study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric article pdf available april 2011 with 3,205 reads how we measure reads. Laboratory tests readymade garments download textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 1. Course spirality is a very common inherent problem in plain knitted fabrics. Pdf a study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric. Study on the important factors influencing spirality of.
Reference the reduction in a dimension of a fibre, yarn or fabric. Fabrics made on circular knitting machines can have inherent nonverticality of wale alignment. Ozkan celik, nuray ucar, determination of spirality in knitted seniz ertugrul fabrics by image analyses istanbul technical university abstract department of. You can find patterns for girl, scarf patterns, interesting home project patterns, and more.
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